By the time I turned six, I had already seen five carnivals from the sidewalk of Vía 40, from Calle 84, or from any other corner willing to throw itself into one of the most beautiful festivals in my country. By then I had already admired the extravagant strut of the María Moñito, the mockery of the marimondas, the discipline of the congos, the force of the mapalé, and my favorite of them all, the Danza del Garabato.
What I didn’t know at that age was where it came from.
The Danza del Garabato was born more than a century ago on the estates of the Colombian Caribbean. The farmhands, who had worked whole days under the sun, invented a dance to mock pain and death.
Their weapon was the garabato: the same wooden stick they used to cut back the undergrowth.
The structure of the dance is clear. The Caporal stands for life, for leadership, for the joy of the people. Death is the dark figure who comes to put the party out.
The legend says that at an old carnival Death appeared suddenly in the middle of the parade.
In the days before, she had already passed through the neighboring hamlets and had left silence and sickness behind her. So when she stepped into the main street, the crowd fell silent.
But the Caporal of the troupe wasn’t frightened. He had already seen the threat coming.
For months the musicians had rehearsed the chandé and the women had embroidered the capes with lace and sequins, to protect the community in spirit, because here we answer misfortune with music and with shine.
Death raised her scythe and attacked. She tried again and again to hook him and drag him to the other side, but the Caporal dodged every blow with leaps and turns of his cape.
The harder Death pushed, the louder the drums rolled.
In the end Death stumbled and fell to her knees. The Caporal disarmed her with his garabato and forced her to flee, beaten, through the cheering of the crowd.
That is why the Garabato is not just a dance. It is the Caribbean stubbornness that laughs in death’s face.
At six years old I knew none of this. All I saw was a dance full of life and color where, when Death fell, everybody cheered and clapped.